So I’ve finally entered the world of the personal blog. Everyone’s at it I tell ya. Eulogizing about they’re achievements, they’re goals, they’re dreams. And who am I to go against the grain, what with so much rather amusing shizzle going on courtesy of my own endeavours. It’s been a while since i last posted about my climbing experiences on the Beta blog, but now representing DMM and Sportiva as well it seems appropriate to set up my own independent blog.
The last year and a half has seen a colossal amount of ups and downs. Climbing went on the back burner for quite a while, then came back with a vengeance, and then repeat.
After a winter of discontent in 2012, i got back on the training program. The silver lining to the horrendous weather was that there was no temptation to venture outside and so the tedious but very effective structure of training paid off well. The goal in mind was an unclimbed line in Stennis Ford< Pembroke which I’d been trying the previous year, and after 3 months of specific training I went to Pembroke in the torrential rain and grabbed the 1st ascent in a 4 hour dry window. Luck frequently plays a part in ascents like this and none more so than this one. 20 mins after I’d topped out the rain was back, making the ascent feel all the sweeter. The result was Something’s Burning E9 7a. The french grade for this is somewhere around 8a+. Its about 5 degrees overhanging and the climbing is techy on small crimps. Very much my style (which is basically a euphemism for saying i’m too weak to climb steep stuff). The gear what it all boils down to though. There’s a cluster of good gear low down which would protect the 1st crux, albeit with a chunky fall. After this however there is a very poor HB3 brassy which wouldn’t even hold body weight. The question is, would a fall from the 2nd crux result in a ground fall or not? I thought not, and luckily never had to test it. Others who have subsequently looked at it have thought otherwise.
Something’s Burning E9 7a -1st crux
2nd Crux
High Above the HB3
Later in 2012 Gilly and I spent 2 months in America with Ged and Nic. Apart from a 2 week trip to the Needles in 2010 I’ve never done any climbing Stateside and i was like a kid with ADHD in a sweet shop. Tour started off in Twoulomne, moved on up the Smith Rock and culminated in Indian Creek. Of course the Bachar-Yerian in Twalomne was the 1st route on the list. This route has a big reputation but has been around for decades and surely wasn’t as terrifying as people like to make out? In the end the hype was justified I think in terms of the quality but not so much the boldness. Yeah it’s massively run out, but in a good way! More exhilarating than scary.
Dyke Route – Classic Tuolomne
Top Of 2nd Pitch on the BY
Ged taking on pitch 1 BY
Pitch 3
Breaking Bad scenes
The 1st climbing magazine that i ever bought was High magazine in March 1989 and on the front cover was Jerry Moffatt making the 3rd ascent of To Bolt Or Not To Be, America’s 1st 8b+ (5.14a). Ever since that day I’d always wanted to go to Smith. Along with Buoux, Ceuse, Verdon, Frankenjura, Malham and Raven Tor it was THE place for lycra clad 80’s sport climbers to prove their worth. 23 years later I went, and set about proving my worth, although sadly not on To Bolt as my form wasn’t up to it at the time. It was unseasonably hot in early October and so we were restricted to some of the easier things initially. We made some great friends in Mark & Sienna Postle and Thomas & Martina Emde who’s hospitality was truly west coast.
The Stunning Arete of Split Image 5.12d
The Dihedrals
The final part of our USA trip took us to Indian Creek. For me in terms of climbing style this was the equivalent of landing on Mars. I’m British ergo I have zero experience of climbing splitter cracks. I was psyched out of my mind to get involved and the several days we had there were incredible. Yes i found the climbing hard, yes it was painful, yes i was crap at it. But it was amazing. Its the 1st time since i was a toatl beginner that i really had to start at the beginning. All the usual tricks to get you out of trouble just don’t apply here in the world of splitters. Everything is different. Floppy shoes, reaching high, finger strength irrelevant. I loved it……
Until Gilly broke her back in a fall from the finishing moves of Pente 5.11. Nothing can prepare you for the flood of fear when someone you love injures themselves seriously in front of you. I wont bore you with the details, suffice to say she has (1 year later) made a full recovery.
Swedin Ringle 5.12a
Six Shooter
Gilly on Pente 5.11 just before her accident
2012 was a bad year, and 2013 has really been about getting back on track. there’s been a lot of time out from climbing, but also some great trips and days out. A 2 week trip to Rodellar in May with Grant and Sash was great. An 8a+ tick several 7c onsights and a play on my 1st 8c. This autumn I’ve had some fun times in Devon, Cornwall, Pembroke and N Wales as well as a quick trip to the Lakes and a week in Scotland working with Dom Bush on his ‘In The Frame’ project about Joe Beaumont.
Memorable days include: Free The Spirit E6 6a on Sanctuary Wall and Il Duce E5 6a at Tintagel with Grant Wright. Lubyanka E3 with Sash Coombes and belaying him on his 1st E5 – Right Wall. Western Union E6 6b & Trilogy E5 6a in the Lakes. Backstabbers E6 6b & Warlord E4 6a in Cheddar with Mike Coles & Grant. Gorak E5 6b, Hungry Heart E5 6b, Just Klingon E5 6a & Hannah E5 6b in Pembroke with Nic Sellers. Changeling E5 6b in Avon with Ged.
Dreadnaught E3 5c
Sash following Lubyanka pitch 5
Il Duce
Shooting on ‘In The Frame’ with Dom Bush & Joe Beaumont
Recently we’ve just got back from 10 days in Siurana and Monsant. Amazing weather and great company made for an excellent trip. An 8a at Raco de Missa called La Mosca Collonera was brilliant and an onsight of the long vertical Kameleon 7c as well as Avatar 7c in the Reina Mora sector of Siurana were great. The last route in particular is a style that i love. Go and check them out!
Anyway that was the last year and a half in a very rough nutshell.
From here on its gotta be upwards….
Charlie Woodburn 